Western Route Azerbaijan
WESTERN ROUTE: BAKU - HAJIGABUL - KURDEMIR - YEVLAKH - TERTER - NAFTALAN - GANJA - KHANLAR - DASHKESEN - SHEMKIR - GEDEBEY - TOVUZ - AGSTAFA - GAZAKH
HAJIGABUL
Hajigabul district is located in a part of ancient fruitful land of Mugan in Kur-Araz lowland. Hajigabul city, administrative center of district, is located in 113 km from Baku. Climate is semi-desert, dry and hot, winter is mild. Temperature of weather is not lower than positive 6 degree in winter. It rains less, but tugai forests and bushes exist along the Kur River. Hajigabul Lake created as a result of natural withdrawal of Caspian Sea in certain geological period is situated within this district. Bed of the lake was enlarged as a result of flood of Kur River in springtime. Now used hot waters of Ali-Bayramly State District Power Station flows into this lake. This lake, depth of which does not exceed 5 meter, is not frozen in winter. It has big importance as suitable place in winter for migrant birds, as well for water-march birds to build a nest. Many of those birds belong to unique types that face the danger of being ended.
This territory was inhabited yet 5 thousand years ago - archeologists found out ruins of cyclopean buildings in Harami Mountain in north-west of city. Petroglyphs in walls of these buildings catch the attention. There were found out images of people and extraordinary, fantastic animals on the stones near. Scientists suppose this object belongs to Eneolith era. Other historical-architectural monuments remain near Hajigabul. In Gubali Baloglan village Pir Huseyn Khanegah includes: ancient mosque with minaret, castle walls, caravanserai, living buildings (XIII-XIV centuries), mausoleum of Sheikh Huseyn, who lived in XI century, (this mausoleum that was built in honor of sheikh was erected after two centuries after his death), as well ancient bridge (XVII-XIX centuries). Glazed brick of Khanegah reflecting picture of lion is considered one of the best in the East. At the present time a part of this bricks is at The Hermitage in Saint-Petersburg and Nizami Ganjavi's Literature Museum in Baku. Gungormez defense tower of early middle ages remained in Udulu village.
YEVLAKH
Yevlakh district is situated on the right bank of Kur River and one of biggest cities of the region called by the people Ganjabasar (it is called so because was the territory of former Ganja Khanate). Ganjabasar region covers a number of districts of Azerbaijan. These districts are similar for their joint history and geographic-climate circumstance. Yevlakh city, administrative center of Yevlakh district, is 280 km away from Baku. Yevlakh is located on the cross of numerous roads. Roads lead from here directly to Mingechevir, Sheki, Balaken, Ganja and Khankendi cities. It is not accidental that Yevlakh is called Door of Karabakh" in written sources of XII century. Both caravans and travelers used to pass from these "doors", as well flocks of sheep used to be taken to pastures in alpine meadows. A number of archeological objects of Bronze Age and early middle ages were found out in Garamammadly, Garamanly and Khaldan villages of Yevlakh.
TERTER
Fruitful land of Karabakh is one of the very ancient regions of Azerbaijan. Popular Karabakh Khanate, center of which was Shusha city, was located here in due time. There are numerous historical-architectural monuments, rich flora and fauna here. One of the colorful types of Azeri carpets - Karabakh carpet was created here, famous sort of Karabakh race horses was raised here. This land, possessing such a rich natural features, gave numerous talented writers, poets and musicians to Azerbaijan. Most popular singers - mugham singers (mugham - national musical genre of Azerbaijan) have come from Karabakh. And mugham melodies are base to national opera of Azerbaijan. Unfortunately Karabakh is under occupation of Armenians at present time.
Terter district is situated along the lower flow of Terterchay, borders upon Injechay from north. Temperature is not lower than positive 2 degree in winter and rarely exceeds 25 degree in summer. Climate is different within the district - mild and semi-desert climates are specific to different regions. Just because of such a changeable climate sheep-breeding is widespread here. Khachinchay crosses this district.
In due time this territory was a constituent part of Albanian state, which was one of early state institutions (Manna, Mydia, Atropaten, Caucasian Albania) of Azerbaijan. Like other Azerbaijanis, Albans also believed in religion of Zoroaster in ancient times, converted to the Christianity later.
Terter city is administrative center of Terter district. City is situated on the both banks of Terterchay, 332km from Baku. Agriculture and cattle-breeding, as well ancient folk arts such as carpet-weaving, weaving and sewing are developed here. Terter city, located on the ancient caravan way, was called Chaparkhana in due time. A number of architectural monuments exist in Terter, Kengerly, Garadagly, Gaynag, Azad Garagoyunlu villages of district.
NAPHTHALAN
Patients coming to sanatoriums and pensions of this resort city are treated with Naphthalan oil and solutions made of it. Naphthalan oil is very effective for treatment of injures, dermatologic, nervous, urologic and gynecologic diseases, liver, joints and soft tissues around joints. Naphthalan city was built in the place of the same-called small village. The word 'naphtha', which is the base of this name, means 'flowing, leaking' from language of Mydia that was one of the ancient state structures in Azerbaijani territory. Yet a few thousand years ago Azerbaijanis were able to use the naphthalene for different purposes. Not only local residents used Naphthalan oil to treat the wounds, also soldiers of Alexander of Macedonia, Roman legionaries and Vikings, as well alans, khezers and reps of other tribes that attacked Azerbaijan in due time used Naphthalan oil to treat their wounds. Naphthalane used to be exported as well. It was transported to other countries - Kiev Russian State, Central Asia, Afghanistan, India, Persian Gulf countries through caravan routes. Famous traveler of middle ages Marco Polo called the Naphthalan oil 'magical solution to treat dermatologic diseases'. When oil industry started to rapidly develop in Azerbaijan in XIX century, number of European engineers, manufacturers and bankers increased much in Azerbaijan. In 1874 German engineer Yeager took interest in what the local people said on Naphthalan oil and regulated the production of 'Naphthalan ointment in Germany. He exported that solution to different countries. Obviously, Germans producing solutions in base of Azerbaijani Naphthalane were good managers because this solution was used not only in European countries. First-aid set of Japanese soldiers included jars containing naphthalane ointments during Russian-Japan war in 1904. This ointment was used as first-aid means. It was written on those jars: 'One having this solution should not be afraid of any wound.
GANJA
Ganja city - is located on the banks of Ganjachay in Ganja-Gazakh lowland. City is divided in two by river. Two climate zones exist here - mild-hot semi-desert and dry steppe climate, as well mild hot climate. Number of population of city is 302.000. City is situated in 375km from Baku. Ganja is the second biggest city of Azerbaijan. There are Ganja State University, Academy of Agriculture, Ganja Branch of National Academy of Sciences of Azerbaijan, Scientific-Research Cotton-growing Institute, Experimental Agriculture Station here. Modern Olympic Sport Complex was built in city.
Ganja is one the most ancient cities, which played important role in history of our country in different periods. Arabs called this city Ganza. During excavations conducted in Ganja archeologists discovered ancient habitations of II century B.C., many archeological objects belonging to Bronze Age around Ganja.
History of Ganja includes its destruction by invaders and revival after that. Ganja was destroyed in Khazar-Arab wars by foreign invaders, tribes such as the alan, Mongol, Georgian kings and Osmanly. After destruction of residence of Christian head of Albans in Barda in XI century, his residence was moved to Ganja. Christians and Muslims used to live in peace together in Ganja, goods taken to Black Sea coasts from Eastern countries were transported through caravan ways crossing this city. In XII century Ganja was capital and residence of feudal lords. But at the time two strong quakes happened in the city. As a result of quake happened in 1139 Ganja was destroyed, nearly 250,000 of city residents died. One of peaks of Kepez Mountain fell and created Goygol Lake by blocking the way of Agsu River.
Hajikend resort zone is located now near Ganja. There are numerous tourist routes, pensions, tourist bases and rest houses here.
“Goygol” State Reserve is first in Azerbaijan. area of this reserve created in 1925 in order to protect and study ecologic systems of middle mountainous, forest and partly subalpine areas, as well Goygol, Maralgol, Zeligol and other mountain lakes, consists of forests and mountain meadows. Goygol, which is located in south of Ganja at the north foots of Murovdag, in 1566m above sea level, is rightly called pearl of Azerbaijan lakes. This reserve that is the first in Caucasus is consisted of two parts - main part and branch called 'Forest of Eldar Pine'. Distance between the two parts of reserve is 80-85km. Ganja got own history-regional geography museum. There are very interesting findings of Bronze Age among exhibits of museum.
DASHKESEN
Dashkesen district, located at the north-east foots of Small Caucasus, is ore producing center of Azerbaijan. Temperature is strictly changeable. 20 degrees of frost in winter (this is not characteristic for Azerbaijan) and 35 degrees of hot in summer like in Absheron, climate of which is semi-desert. District attracts both tourists and people resting with its fresh air, mountainous grasslands rich with alpine meadows, springs.
Archeologists found out ruins of ancient habitations belonging Stone Age in areas of Khoshbulag, Zagaly, Gurbulag, Emirvar, Bayan, Darderya villages of this district. Two ancient stone bridges built on the Gushgara River and mausoleum in Ahmadly village are historical-architectural monuments remained till now. Monastery built in Gushchu village in 487 is safe. There are ruins of Christian temple of XV century in Bayan village.
Administrative center of district is Dashkesen city, which is located in 397kn from Baku.
GEDEBEY
Gedebey district is situated in Small Caucasus Mountains, as well in high mountains (height of Goshabulag peak is 3549m, Gojadag peak is 3317m) and mountains with middle height. Different levels of territory above sea make climate changeable. Climate, specific to tundra, of mountainous area partly transfers into dry climate accompanied with hot summer. Distance between district center and Baku is 462km.
There is good circumstance within Gedebey district for fishing in Shemkir River. There is special fishing farm near Galakend village. Flora and fauna of Gedebey district is rich and various. 'Gizilagaj' reserve is located within this district.
Ancient cultural monuments that entered Azerbaijani history under name of Khojaly-Gedebey Culture - Cyclopean buildings belonging to Bronze age, as well 'Gedebey Treasures' - domestic appliances and ancient jewelry jugs, silver coins belonging to XVI century - reign of Shah Tahmasib were discovered here. These coins were used in from Tebriz (current Iran) to Shirvan and Ganja. Historical-architectural buildings that are safe within district include Tagly Korpu (XIX c), Gulle in Gala village (XVI c), Giz Galasi in Soyudlu village (or Namerd Gala - IX c), Christian temples of early middle ages in Novosaratovka, Soyudlu, Chanakhchi and Kilevi villages.
Territory of Azerbaijan was paid attention by some of popular western owners. For instance, The Brothers Nobel became rich due to Baku oil. Germany's 'SIEMENS' company built two copper-smelting plants in Gedebey in later XIX century. 25% of all the copper smelt in Russia of czar was carried out at these plants. The brothers Siemens took interest in history of this extra-ordinary land and organized implementation of archeological excavations in this region.
AGSTAFA
Agstafa district is situated at the foots of Great Caucasus Mountains, in frontier of Azerbaijan with Georgia and Armenia. Climate is mild. Local people are engaged mainly in cattle-breeding and agriculture.
Garayazi State Reserve, covering 4,9 thousand hectares of area on the bank of Kur river, was created in 1978 to preserve and restore tugai forests around Kur, Garayazi lowland and middle flow of Kur river. Major object protected in reserve is tugai forestland.
'Garayazi-Agstafa' Reserve that was established in 1923 in area of 12,0 thousand hectares, is located within Agstafa district. Goal of creation of this reserve was to protect Caucasian deer, pheasant, partridge, other types of unique animals and birds and lift their number. Reserve is situated in thick forestland in middle flow of Kur River, in border between Georgia and Azerbaijan. Flora and fauna of this reserve is identical to ones of 'Garayazi' Reserve, which directly borders on it.
A number of historical monuments were discovered within district: ancient habitation called Molla Nagi Tepesi of Paleolithic age near Kochasger village, Gulle of XVII century and Mosque of XIX century in Girag Kesemen village, mosques of XIX century in Kolkhalvaly, Garahasanly, Dagkesemen and Duz Gishlag villages and etc. There are too many monuments here belonging to Stone, Bronze and Iron ages. These facts show that level of habitation of this region was very high in ancient times. There is need for detailed study of all these archeological objects and realization of new excavations.
There are defense castle and cave-monasteries, built in Caucasian Albania during early Christianity, near herdsman places, which are grasslands for sheep flocks in summer, in Keshikchidag Range in upper part of Agstafa city. This zone was banned to visit during UUSR, because military units of TransCaucasus Military Division were located there. This is why that unique complex was not studied in required manner. It was prohibited zone, many of ancient images in caves were wiped off with artillery fires. This complex, which belongs to Caucasian Albania - one of state structures of ancient Azerbaijan, is studied at present time by archeologists of National Academy of Sciences.
Agstafa City is situated near Georgian border, 479km from Baku. City was built in 1914 as railway junction. The city, territory of which was small then, was called Yelizavetinka.
GAZAKH
Gazakh district is situated near western borders of Azerbaijan. In general, Gazakh and Agstafa districts are considered western borders of not modern Azerbaijan only as well state of Caucasian Albania. Division of this region into two independent administrative districts - Gazakh and Agstafa districts took place not long ago. There are historical monuments (architectural and archeological monuments) here that are preserved by state: Sinig Korpu (XII c), Damjili Cave, Temple of V century in Yukhari Eskipara village, Sheker Gala Temple of XV century, Didevan megalith Defense Castle, Temples Complex of Alban era (VII c) in Dash Salahly village, Goyazan Mountain (last middle ages), which is attractive with ruins of castle walls, and ruins of ancient city recently discovered near that.
There are many ancient habitations within Gazakh district: caves periodically inhabited by Neanderthals in Avey Mountain, between Dash Salahly and Kemerly villages, Injesu River valley, north-east parts of Small Caucasus, settlements of Cro-Magnon men near Damjili cave in Avey Mountain, Khal-Khal city place near beautiful pinky-golden Gizil Gaya and ruins of castle walls were found out. This territory is supposed to be one of summer residences of Alban rulers. Without implementing any excavations, archeologists found here numerous ruins of ceramic appliances of Bronze Age on the surface of ground. In due time Albans destroyed troops of Roman Pompey here. Ancient written sources say about this: '10,000 horsemen and 60,000 pedestrians of Albans were fighting against troops of Pompey'. Barrow graves of Bronze Age were discovered in Berkin Agzi canyon, which is located a bit west of Gizil Gaya. All these historical objects (except Sinig korpu) are nearby Gazakh city. Due to efforts of initiator men of this land, numerous archeological artifacts have been collected and exhibited at local Regional geography museum.
Gazakh, which is the last biggest city in western frontier of Azerbaijan, is homeland of talented poets and writers.